Witnessing Theyyam: A Journey into Kerala’s Mesmerizing Ritual Art
I first read about Theyyam when I attended a National Integration Camp (NIC) in Alleppey in 2008 as part of the NCC Army Wing. For the uninitiated, NICs are conducted by the NCC to spread the message of communal harmony between states through performances by the NCC cadets.
Since the camp was held in Kerala, the cadets from the state were given the responsibility of showcasing its art and culture. As the MC, I had the opportunity to introduce Kerala’s rich cultural heritage, including the Theyyam dance form, which was followed by a cadet dressed as Theyyam.
For years, I had wished to witness Theyyam in its true form. A couple of weeks ago, I casually mentioned this to a friend, who turned out to share the same interest in seeing Theyyam. We found others who were interested, and we decided to travel to Kannur from Bangalore.
We found event details on the Kerala Tourism website and reached out to the contact numbers listed. Through our inquiries, we learned about a Theyyam performance at a temple near Mangad, Kannur. We arrived a day before the event and stayed at KTDC Folk Land, Parassinikadavu — a conveniently located and budget-friendly hotel near the temple.
We reached the temple around 8 PM. They had arranged a feast for everyone and we participated in Prasada Sadya. There are many forms of Theyyam, each with its own story to tell. A Dravidian art form, Theyyam has traditionally been performed mostly by men from lower castes. The Wikipedia article on Theyyam also references the only Theyyam performed by a woman. Perhaps, I will attend that next year
The art form is accompanied by percussion artists, with Theyyam dancing in sync with their rhythmic beats. The energy of the Theyyam performers is truly remarkable — they continue for hours without showing any signs of fatigue.
Kandanar Kelan is renowned for his speed and his ability to captivate the crowd with stunning pyrotechnic displays. He would leap into the fire with bare feet, repeating it in a continuous loop.
One of my friends Basil, who was standing very close to the fire, remarked:
I could feel the energy of the Theyyam coursing through me, sending shivers down my spine. I got goosebumps as Kelan came within touching distance. Despite standing several feet away from the fire, the heat was intense — making it all the more astonishing that the artist moved through the flames without hesitation.”
The main event, known as Kandanar Kelan Daivam Purapad, began at 3 AM and lasted until nearly 5 AM. According to a temple official, the artist transforms overnight in preparation for the ritual performance. A great deal of preparation goes into this art form. Skilled artists meticulously transform performers into Theyyam by adorning their faces and bodies with intricate patterns and vibrant colors.
Another friend, Juna had more to say:
Having read through the origins of few of hundreds of Theyyam for a friend’s thesis work, Thondachan Wayanatt Kulavan and Kandanar Kelan’s story somehow stood apart in mind. Have been wanting to witness Kelan’s transformation into the guardian deity since then. The ritual of such folk performances is rooted in the idea of a society with no caste barriers, the loudest chant against the hierarchies.
The 900 km journey over three days was not just about witnessing Theyyam — it was about feeling its raw energy, spirituality, and tradition firsthand. If you’ve never experienced it, I highly recommend setting aside a weekend to immerse yourself in this extraordinary art form.
